Nauryz!

Back in early December we lamented that our adoption was progressing so slowly that we might be in Kazakhstan for their New Year celebration (in March) rather than the Kazakh Christmas celebration we had hoped for. Well, here we are!

Nauryz is a blend of two Farsi (Persian) words, “nau” meaning new and “yryz” meaning day. The holiday dates back 2,500 years and celebrates friendship, harmony with nature, and renewal. It is always held on the spring equinox, symbolizing beginnings and good luck for the coming year. It is celebrated throughout central Asia and parts of China, Russia and Eastern Europe.

Family members gather to give blessings, forgive debts and end quarrels. Events that occur in the first 13 days after the New Year are believed to indicate how the rest of the year will go, so forgiveness and kindness are encouraged.

Nauryz-kozhe is served at most Nauryz gatherings. This is a traditional, yogurt based soup or drink cooked with 7 ingredients including meat, barley and corn. The 7 ingredients can vary from recipe to recipe, but all symbolize richness, well-being, prosperity and the generosity of Mother Nature.

We met up with our translator and her cousin at the square in front of the former legislative building, which happens to be Almaty’s largest square. The legislative building (now the Kazakh-British Technical University) was wrapped from corner to corner in a giant mural of an ancient Kazakh city destroyed by Genghis Khan. A large stage was set up in front of the building. Various food stands and yurts were set up around the square’s perimeter. The rest of the square was filled with people. We joined the masses and soon ended up in the middle of the square watching the presentations and performances on stage, including an address by the mayor and a variety of Kazakh folk dances and pageantry.

As in many of the places we have visited outside of North America, people in Kazakhstan possess a different sense of personal space. North Americans occupy a much larger aura of personal space which is not to be invaded or imposed upon by others. Kazakhs, on the other hand, seem to share their individual space more willingly. Friends frequently walk hand in hand or arm in arm. Strangers often brush against each other without batting an eye on sidewalks or in narrow shop aisles and other crowded spaces. No offense is taken and no apology is offered. (By the way, Kazakhs drive this way as well!)

This lack of personal space was amplified in the square today. Far more people than space but somehow everybody squeezed in to watch the performances. Add to that the crowd’s nomadic roots and you have a shoulder to shoulder, standing room only mass of people that will not stand still. People were coming and going, to-ing and fro-ing, all at the same time. How does one get through a tightly packed wall of people? Raise elbow and start walking. Under normal conditions, we don’t find such crowds appealling. However, today we got a kick (sometimes literally) out of people watching from the middle of it all while being jostled, nudged and shoved.

After an hour or so, we decided to head to the perimeter and sample some Nauryz-kozhe, the traditional soup. That is when Julian discovered his pocket had been “professionally” slashed and his wallet had been stolen during the jostles, nudges or shoves.

Before anyone jumps to the conclusion that Almaty is dangerous or that Kazakhs are thieves, remember that this very incident could have happened just as easily in any North American city (and does over and over every day). With that in mind, let this be a gentle reminder that it is a good idea for all of us, whether travelling or not, to document the cards and IDs we carry in our wallets, record the cancellation procedures, and maybe even pare down the contents to no more than what we need.

After a brief detour back to our apartment to cancel cards, we hopped back on the Nauryz horse and returned to the festivities. This time we were content to avoid the middle of the crowd and favored the view from the perimeter instead. The performances lasted all afternoon. This evening there was a music concert, though we did not stay for it. The finale was a grand fireworks show that was nicely visible from our kitchen window.

Billboards made of flowers in varying colors went up all over the city this week. This says Nauryz.In the background is the former legislative building wrapped in the giant mural.

A large swingset operated by men in traditional costume.The dombra is Kazakhstan's national folk instrument.

The crowded park bordering the crowded square where the festival was held. Many grills were cooking many kebabs, thus the smoke.

Grand finale.